We joined the Canal du Midi at Marseillette, about thirty kilometres west of Narbonne, and walked westward for five days to Avignonet-Lauragais, the village where we had first joined the canal in 2004.
This section took us into the heart of the religious persecution of the thirteenth century known as the Albigensian Crusade.
The victims were the Cathars, citizens of Languedoc, and the pretext was their belief in a slightly different form of Christianity envisaging God and the devil as equal and opposite forces.
Unspeakable horrors were committed by papal soldiers and eventually the Cathars were wiped out. Carcassonne, Bram and Castelnaudary still bear the scars of this time.
Another interesting thing about this section was the crossing of the Seuil de Naurouze – the highest point on the canal and the threshhold between east-flowing and west-flowing locks.
To feed these locks, an ingenious system was designed, bringing water from the mountains to the north via a channel called the Rigole.
This engineering feat, and indeed the whole conception and execution of the Canal, was impressive, considering that it was almost four centuries ago and the only tools available were a spirit level, some horses, and men with picks and shovels.
We were able to camp every night along the canal, unlike in the few days before, and we also managed to eat in restaurants, although not always very grandly. The weather remained cool, which was good, and showery, which was not so good.
Getting to Capendu
There is an autocar (bus) service from the Carcassonne railway station to Capendu. Alternatively, if you want to start your walk on the canal, there is a bus service to Marseillette (which also has a hotel) from Carcassonne.
Day 1: Capendu to Trèbes
Day 2: Trèbes to Carcassonne
Day 3: Carcassonne to Alzonne
Day 4: Alzonne to Castelnaudary
Our route of the Rigole
Getting to Revel
The SNCF railway station at Revel is closed. However, there is a daily bus service between the Toulouse railway station and Revel.