Day 9: Chanaleilles to Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole

Sunday, 16 June 2002
Distance 26 km
Map 50 of the TOP 100 blue series (now superseded)
Topo-Guide (Ref 651) Sentier de Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle Le Puy/Aubrac/Conques/Figeac

Walking in France: Resting, watching other pilgrims walk by

Resting, watching other pilgrims walk by

We set off at 7:30 after large bowls of café au lait and fresh bread with home-made jam. Our hostess apologised for serving bought butter. We cut off the detour to the domaine du Sauvage by following the road, which saved several kilometres.

Coming to a shrine to Saint-Roche, I bathed my blisters in the holy spring water, but unfortunately there was no miracle cure.

We had crossed from Haute-Loire to the department of Lozère and before long we swung into Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole with its wide views of the valley.

Walking in France: Dinner below the bell-tower, Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole

Dinner below the bell-tower


There was an imposing fortress, but the best location in town was enjoyed by the lunatic asylum.

What with blisters and Keith’s impending cold, we decided not to press on that day, except to get to the camping ground, two kilometres further on, near the river. Having washed ourselves and our clothes and draped the latter on a tree, we spent a pleasant afternoon in the shade beside a stream. As the heat started to abate, we returned to the village.

In sandals and without packs it did not seem half as far, and we were soon installed on the terrace of a café beneath the triple bell-wall, where we had omelettes and salad with three basketfuls of bread, a carafe of wine and a great quantity of water. Our appetites were noted approvingly by the waitress as “un signe de bonne santé”.