Day 19: Arnay-le-Duc to Autun

Walking in France: Back in town for breakfast

Back in town for breakfast

Monday, 3 July 2017
Distance 33 km
Duration 7 hours 30 minutes
Ascent 314 m, descent 380 m
Map 136 of the TOP 100 lime-green series

We had a long way to go today, twice as far as yesterday, and no prospect of refreshments en route, so we were determined to pack in as much breakfast food as possible, the starchier and fattier the better, and plenty of coffee, before leaving town.

The camping ground was as quiet as the grave when we emerged onto the road and walked the now familiar kilometre to the top of Arnay-le-Duc, picking up a bag of still-warm pastries on the way.

The café had only just opened when we arrived, and the outdoor tables were not set out, so we went inside and spread out our breakfast on the table, with the coffee.

Walking in France: The Café de la Place, next to the quaint Office of Tourism, Arnay-le-Duc

The Café de la Place, next to the quaint Office of Tourism


Just as we were ready to order a second round, there was a little commotion at the counter, with the barman cursing, peering into the coffee machine, flicking through the manual, and finally barking into his mobile phone.

The machine had died, and we were the last people to be served coffee that morning. The rest had to make do with glasses of wine, a bit of a challenge at 7:30 in the morning.

In the circumstances we could hardly complain about the lack of a second round.


Walking in France: Confidently striding off in the wrong direction past the splendid Café du Nord, Arnay-le-Duc

Confidently striding off (in the wrong direction) past the splendid Café du Nord

Soon afterwards we set off, aiming for the cemetery to the west of the village, where our route turned off.

The trouble with hilltop towns like this is that the streets radiate like the spokes of a wheel, and it is easy to take the wrong one, which is what we did. The result was that we saw more than we wanted of the less picturesque parts of the village, and eventually had to ask a truck driver for instructions.

An hour and a half after we left the bar, we finally made it to the cemetery, a direct distance of about 400 metres.


Walking in France: At last, we're on our way to Autun!

At last, we’re on our way to Autun!

After that there were no more dramas and we swung along well enough.

The road was bitumen, but narrow and wholly devoid of traffic, the ideal walking surface.

The country around us was like a park, with lawns, hedges and shady trees, even the occasional tiny cluster of houses.


Walking in France: The Arnay to Autun Roman road

The Roman road from Arnay to Autun

A couple of hours of this brought us to the place where an old Roman road crossed the modern one, and this was where we left the bitumen.

After two thousand years the Roman road was still uncompromisingly straight, with only a slight waver as it crossed a stream, and another to get over a wooded ridge, where the track was deeply gouged by tractor wheels.


Walking in France: Negotiating some local road works

Negotiating some local road works

Some farmer had tried repair the damage with a truckload of broken tiles, but another fifty truckloads would have been needed to fill these trenches.

Out in the open again, we had a bizarre feeling of incongruity as we came to the intersection of the Roman road with the TGV line.

It was impossible to imagine what a foot-soldier of the time might have thought, if one of these trains had whistled past in front of him like a streak of lightning.


Walking in France: A TGV blasting through the countryside

A TGV blasting through the countryside

Walking in France: A foot-soldier having a rest, while a TGV passes over the bridge

A foot-soldier having a rest, while a TGV passes over the bridge

As modern-day foot-soldiers, we sat down on the track for a short rest, during which time three or four such missiles shot past on the overbridge nearby.

Pressing on, we came to a part of the road which, although unwaveringly straight, was becoming overgrown.

We were pleased when we came out onto a road, where there was a farm and a good clear track leading down into the fields, but suddenly we were confronted with a mass of tangled vegetation and no way of getting around it. We made a few attempts but it was hopeless.

Walking in France: About to meet a dead end on the Roman road

About to meet a dead end on the Roman road


Our only choice was to go back to the road and try to work out what to do next.

Because our home-made maps are so large-scale, we could only see the first hundred metres of the road, so we had to hope that it would eventually curve around and deliver us to the other end of the Roman road.

Then we remembered that our little iPod contained MAPS.ME, an app that we had downloaded before leaving home, with maps of all the departments that we would be walking through. This confirmed that all would be well if we took the tar road, although it was a little longer than the Roman way.

Walking in France: A pleasant detour on the D107

A pleasant detour on the D107

It was a pleasure to walk freely along the smooth surface of the road, and just around the bend we came to Nanteuil, which was no more that a few houses, all very neat in their well-tended gardens.

Here we turned onto the D107. which curved around obligingly in the direction that we wanted, and we soon arrived at the lower end of the Roman road, which was now the private entrance road of a farm. We would never have got through with any degree of dignity.

Walking in France: A lovely back way into Autun

A lovely back way into Autun


We turned off the D107 onto a pleasant little road through pastureland, bordered by trees in places.

As we got closer to Autun, the sprinkling of houses became a solid mass and the trees disappeared, leaving us trudging along through grey streets under the full force of the sun.

Even in our weary state, the sight of the Porte-St-André was impressive.


Autun was founded in the reign of the first emperor, Augustus, and named after him – surely only the French could reduce its polysyllabic original title of Augustodunum to the present terse grunt. It had huge walls, of which only a short section and two gates remain, an amphitheatre, baths, a forum, and indeed all the comforts. The idea was to reward the local tribe for their cooperation against other Gauls, and also to convince any lingering Gaullish malcontents of the attractions of the Roman way of life, compared to that of nearby Bibracte, their original capital, a few miles to the west.

Walking in France: Porte-St-André, Autun

Porte-St-André, Autun

We passed under this mighty monument and toiled on until we came to the main road leading north (the D980).

There was supposed to be a bar here, but it was disappointingly closed, so we continued down to the Porte d’Arroux, as impressive as the first gate, then crossed the river, passed a field containing the enigmatic Temple of Janus, and before long arrived at the camping ground, which we remembered with affection from our visit in 2006.

Back then the highlight had been the elegant outdoor restaurant overlooking the river, where we had dined in style. Unfortunately the passage of eleven years had not improved this place.

It had been taken over by a private company and was now mostly filled with cabins. There was still an area of lawn for tents, with the same lovely canopy of birch and chestnut trees, but the restaurant was now just a cheerless room where little more than cold drinks and lollies could be bought.

Walking in France: Brasserie du Commerce, Autun

Brasserie du Commerce

Our intention had been to have a rest day here, but when we saw how things had changed, we resolved to have a rest at our next stop instead.

Once we had finished our ablutions and hung our walking clothes out to dry, we strolled back to town in search of dinner.

The dining precinct was high in the town, on the wide square flanked by the Avenue Charles de Gaulle and the Rue Guérin.

We chose the Brasserie du Commerce, whose glass frontage had been folded back to form a welcoming cave.

As a first course we shared a salad auvergnate (with walnuts and blue cheese), only remembering to take a photo as we polished off the last shreds of lettuce – we were starving after our long day from Arnay-le-Duc.

Walking in France: Our main courses, lasagne and ...

Our main courses, lasagne and …


Then we moved on to the main dishes. I had lasagne and Keith had boeuf bourguignon, which he chooses whenever it is offered. Nothing had so far surpassed the one from the Château de l’Epervière, but he kept searching.

Walking in France: ... boeuf bourguignon with chips

… boeuf bourguignon, served oddly with chips


Walking in France: The Porte d’Arroux with a gibbous moon, Autun

The Porte d’Arroux with a gibbous moon


The day was fading as we descended once again through the Porte d’Arroux.

A gibbous moon hung above it like a portent, and across the field, bathed in soft evening light, the Temple of Janus was still standing after a couple of thousand years.

Walking in France: Temple of Janus, Autun

Temple of Janus


Apparently it had nothing to do with the god Janus, but got the name from a corruption of la Genetoye, a vast neolithic sanctuary that had occupied the site long before the Romans arrived. It was a mysterious and moving sight.