This very hilly two-day crossing of the Cévennes took us over one of the major watersheds of France, from the land of the various Gardons, flowing into the Mediterranean, to that of the Tarn, which flows west to the Atlantic. The country is notoriously rough and ungovernable, both physically and morally.
It was formerly the home of the Camisards, the Protestants who dominated the Cévennes from the sixteenth century. The area is still largely Protestant, and the village of Cassagnas is one of the few in France with a Protestant church (a “temple”), but no Catholic one.
Getting to St-Jean-du-Gard
The nearest SNCF railway station is at Alès. From Alès the choice is either a bus (autocar) directly to Saint-Jean-du-Gard, or a bus to Anduze then a tourist train (Train à vapeur des Cévennes) on to Saint-Jean-du-Gard.