Day 10: Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole to Aumont-Aubrac

Monday, 17 June 2002
Distance 15 km
Map 58 of the TOP 100 blue series (now superseded)
Topo-Guide (Ref 651) Sentier de Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle Le Puy/Aubrac/Conques/Figeac

Walking in France: Pigeonnier (with pigeon)

Pigeonnier (with pigeon)

Keith woke with a heavy cold so we made slow progress. We walked down the road until the GR crossed it, then took to the track. The morning was hot and airless, but the walk was not difficult in itself.

Through les Estrets we trudged, following the ancient way to Aumont over pasturelands, with the occasional back-breaking climb. Having descended into the streets of Aumont, we found that the camping ground was far out of the village in an uphill direction –  two little kilometres, said a sympathetic shopkeeper.

It seemed much further in the torrid midday heat, but at last we arrived, and flung ourselves down on the soft grass under a pine tree. The place was deserted until late in the day, when a woman came to collect our money.

Walking in France: The Marie Celeste camping ground of Aumont-Aubrac

The Marie Celeste camping ground of Aumont-Aubrac


Walking back to the town in the evening, to get painkillers and a meal, had to be done in stages as Keith was so sick. We sat down a couple of times to gather strength. Once in the square, we bought some medicines at the Pharmacie and retired to the coutyard of the old-fashioned travellers’ hotel, where an awning protected us from the harsh evening sun.

After a restoring drink, we went indoors with all the other drinkers for a fine dinner in the traditional style – crudities, roast beef and cake.  I slipped a few chunks of bread into my hat before we left, as we needed some for tomorrow.